Category Archives: Santiago

Chile Day 10: Last Few Things

We had a little more than half a day left. We woke up to the first rain of the trip, so we decided to stay in the neighborhood.

La Chascona, the home of Pablo Neruda, the poet, was just meters from our hotel. 


We didn’t know much about him, but a short film told his story as a poet and statesman. An excellent audio guide took us around his house, which had been restored by his wife after it had been damaged during the first days of Pinochet’s dictatorship. In fact, Neruda died just days later and his funeral was the first protest of the changes. 

Our only regret is we didn’t visit his home in Valparaíso. 

We then walked along Bellavista Street and found a jewelry store that Ellen has wanted to see. She has a new pair of Chilean stone earrings!
 We had lunch at a recommended restaurant in the neighborhood, Galindo. The Aubrey had been nice enough to give us late checkout, so we packed up our things and got an Uber to the airport. 

Our driver was so nice, speaking no English but wanted to talk to us so we struggled with some Spanish and did the best we could. 

We chatted in line to check-in with a public health grad student at Emory who had been working with midwives outside of Santiago for 2 months. 

We picked out a couple of piscos in duty-free and waited for our plane. We left on time. I caught up on podcasts and watched the live-action Beauty and the Beast. Before you knew it, we were in Atlanta. 

Global Entry again was a breeze. We were counseled to move the pisco to our checked baggage, so we will hopefully see it again soon in DC. 

I’ll end the post with more Street art from Santiago. 

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Chile Day 9: Doing Santiago

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Today was our one full day in Santiago, and we made it a full one. Surprised?

We had learned that the changing of the guard at the presidential palace was at 10am, so we walked about 1/2 an hour to get there in time. It was underwhelming, just the guards on duty stepping off with new guards taking their place. Well, at least we can say we were there. Here’s what I captured. DSC_0886

There are 4 statues in the park, here is Salvador Allende’s. DSC_0891

We walked back to Plaza de Armas. Wouldn’t want to be chased down by these police officers on horseback. DSC_0904

We went into the grand post office building. They had a nice museum inside.

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It was time to hit museums. Our first was the Museo Nacional de Bella Artes. It’s their modern art museum.DSC_0912

Where else would you see hay bales in the shape of the Arc de Triumphe?IMG_3260

We had lunch in the same neighborhood at Colmado Coffee & Bakery. Our waitress spoke English and was so very nice. My sandwich was huge, I could only eat half. I asked if she could give it to someone in need. She said she couldn’t but I could, so she wrapped it up for me. Across the street was a park, and I found a homeless man and offered him the food. He asked what it was, I managed to communicate it and he accepted it. It was a little thing I could do.

Our next museum was the Museo de Artes Visuales. They had an exhibit of the socialist revolutionaries of Latin America and their attempts to create utopian societies. Recognized 26 Julio, which was the Castros in Cuba. DSC_0922

We walked back to our neighborhood over the water. Of course, they have a lock bridge, like everywhere else. DSC_0930

We stopped for our afternoon pisco sours. Dinner was an amazing experience, a Peruvian ancestral food restaurant, Peumayen.IMG_3264

To give you a sense of how wild this place was, these were the breads, representing Peru from north to south.IMG_3267

I had the vegetarian main course, quinoa and I can’t be sure what else. But it was tasty!IMG_3271

We weren’t sure we could take a horizontal dessert too, so we went for gelato!

Tomorrow we have a little more than half a day in Santiago, and then we start the trip home.


Chile/Argentina Day 7: Back to Santiago 🇨🇱

Another long bus ride today. We got up early for a 6:30am bus ride from Mendoza back to Santiago on Andesmar. We were better prepared this time, bringing food with us and a somewhat better understanding of the process.

The Andes again were beautiful. 

The border crossing into Chile was much smoother. It took only an hour or so to get through Immigraion and Customs. We now have 2 Chile entrance stamps!

With our Chile Claro SIM cards, we could easily request an Uber when we got back to the bus station. Because of heavy traffic, it was more than a half hour to get back to The Aubrey Hotel.

We dropped our stuff and headed straight out. We had a small snack at The Pizza Factory in the Patio Bellavista, an outdoor collection of restaurants and shops a few blocks from our hotel. Ellen mentioned pisco to the owner, and he brought over a bottle and gave her a couple of shots on the house.

We decided to go up to Parque Metropolitano via the funicular near our hotel. 

At the very top of the hill is Cerro San Cristóbal. 

We were at the park just at dusk, which provided great views of the city. 

We took a cable car down, which was a fast ride and a lot of fun.

We had seen a burger place recommended in the guidebook. How can you not try Uncle Fletch? So we did. Really good burgers, and Ellen got polenta instead of fries! 

We walked around our Bellavista neighborhood, which was full of life and music and people, on a Tuesday night!

We have much of our Santiago sightseeing to pack in tomorrow, so it will be a busy day.


Chile Day 2: Valparaiso

We got a good night’s sleep, ate breakfast at the hotel, and then we were off. We got an Uber to take us to the bus station. 20 minute drive, $6.50 fare. And that was expensive compared to our next mode of transportation!

We bought tickets on Turbus to Valparaiso.  For an hour-and-a-half bus ride for 2 people? $7.50! You can’t beat that.IMG_3134

The bus ride took us through Chile’s Casablanca wine region. No stopping, but pretty scenery.

Valparaiso was South America’s biggest port until the Panama Canal was built. It is built on a group of hills that gives great views of the water…and challenges anyone trying to walk uphill! We again took an Uber from the bus station to the hotel. Uber is FANTASTIC in a foreign country. You don’t have to communicate your destination, you don’t have to negotiate the fare and worry about being ripped off and you don’t have to mess with currency or change. 15 minute ride, $4.50 right to our hotel. We are staying at Voga, boutique hotel of just 4 rooms. It is quiet and peaceful.

We were soon off to explore. It’s a difficult city to navigate, as you can’t easily get from one place to another without walking downhill and then back up. That just gave us a chance to take a funicular ride for 15 cents each!  

We went to the Museum of Bellas Artes in a beautiful old mansion. DSC_0642

We rode the funicular back down, and walked through Plaza Sotomayer.

 

Next was the dock, where we somehow figured out how to get a private charter with one other passenger out into the harbor. Great views of the city, ships and unexpectantly, seals! DSC_0647DSC_0661DSC_0674DSC_0676DSC_0693

Another ride up the mountain, a stop for coffee and beer, more walking, and some shopping for Ellen. We needed to use up a little more time before dinner, so we stopped for a pisco sour. We then walked to dinner at Restaurant La Concepcion. Ellen had crab ravioli, I had brisket followed by a chocolate molten cake. Our waitress chatted a little with us, and we had a wonderful dining experience.

 

Then, we had only 3/10 of a mile to walk back to the hotel. But it was solid uphill, so it took a little bit of time. We made it, and worked off some of dinner along the way!

Perhaps even more than in Santiago, there was building street art. Here’s just a few samples to leave you with tonight. DSC_0627DSC_0633DSC_0701DSC_0704


Chile Day 1: Easy Acclimating

We highly recommend long flights that keep you in the same time zone. Makes everything so easy physically.

We had two delayed flights that didn’t cost us very much time. Flying out of Dulles, we were delayed because of storms in Atlanta. It just shortened our layover. We boarded on time to Santiago, but the wing had a part that had to be replaced. We sat, it was hot and we took off over an hour late. But a 9 hour overnight flight was perfect for sleeping, and we landed only 20 minutes later than scheduled.

To make things easier on arrival, we had our hotel arrange for a car to meet us. Immigration was easy, with a short line and pleasant official. Our suitcases came off quickly and Customs went fast too. So off we were less than an hour after landing.

Our hotel, The Aubrey, is in the Bellavista neighborhood, close enough to walk to most everything but elegant and set in the bottom of a mountainous park. They greeted Ellen, who had made the reservation, by name even before we introduced ourselves. What a way to make you feel welcome! Even though we arrived at 10am, they invited us to breakfast.

We then set off walking. First stop, of course, was to get SIM cards. We were looking for Movistar, but came across Claro first. Even though the woman working there spoke no English, we worked out the card, how much to put on it and what plan we needed. It entailed stepping out to a kiosk on the street to put money on the SIM, but by the time I got back, she had both phones working. $4.50 each for 2GB if data.

We then started exploring. We were near Plaza de Armas, so we walked around the square and went into the church.  

We the walked a few blocks to a mall. Lunch was at the food court, where we luckily could order by promo meal. 

We found a futbol store, and got my souvenir, a Chile National team soccer jersey.

We wandered along, and found the Central Market. 

The streets have so many murals and graffiti art, sometimes hard to know which is which. But so colorful. 

We returned to the hotel, long enough to have afternoon tea, relax a bit and have a Chilean pisco sour. Almost as good as Perú!

Dinner was just a short walk away at El Meson Nerudiano, a seafood restaurant. Our waiter, Alejandro, engaged us in conversation about food and Trump and our travels. Made the meal even better than the excellent food.

No jet lag allowed us to fully enjoy the day, while a low pressure schedule meant we could just admire the city and the people. Great start!